The two of you take the train to Pompeii. Walking around the excavated city is magical. It is as if the volcano has not yet erupted, the ash has not yet fallen. A guide offers to show you both around the Villa Dei Misteri. You think he is offering you a pamphlet so you accept with a smile as he brushes back his Engelbert Humperdink hair, looks at you soulfully and murmurs to his friend that you are a beautiful French student. You are relieved he doesn't call you German. Everyone in Italy thinks Donna and you are German sisters. It is as annoying and alienating as all the sprawling swastikas disaffected youth have scrawled across Rome. You are tired of Italians yelling DANKE in your face like it's an epithet. It makes you want to yell LESBIAN back. Meanwhile, you are smiling and hoping the pamphlet will be in English. So when he begins walking towards the Villa, you are surprised.