Mount Everest is the dark pyramid in the back. Changtse is at the far left, in Tibet. Everest West Ridge Shoulder is in the center, and the Khumbu Icefall is directly beneath it. Part of Nuptse is visible on the right, and Lhotse is hidden behind it.
 

Mount Everest is the highest mountain on earth with an official elevation of 29,028 feet above sea level [update: National Geographic now calls it 29,035 feet due to a new survey]. It sits near the eastern end of the Himalaya Range of mountains, along the border between Tibet and Nepal. Prior to World War II, the Kingdom of Nepal was a closed country and foreigners were forbidden. As a result, all of the early attempts to climb Mount Everest approached from the Tibetan (north) side. Following the war and following a change in government, Nepal began to open its borders officially for foreigners. The mountaineers then shifted their approach to the Nepalese (south) side. During 1950-52, the Swiss and British made forays into the Khumbu Region of Nepal which surrounds Everest, and the British Expedition of 1953 was finally successful. Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa, were the first two men to reach the summit in May of that year.

This article should give you a little flavor of a recent Mount Everest trek. If you are a world-class mountaineer and have sufficient funding, you might try to actually climb Everest someday. For the rest of us mortals, we are content by walking near the Base Camp of Everest to a point slightly above 18,000 feet. Here we find only about 50% of sea level air pressure.

Now in the late 1990's, Nepal is still a very poor country and the hard currency of tourists receives tremendous respect. Trekking companies exist to guide tourists safely in and out of the Khumbu Region. These treks are staffed primarily by the local Sherpa people, and resemble backpack trips, except that the trekkers do not carry heavy packs. Using human porters on some trails and yaks as the beast of burden on other trails, the trekking group winds its way up and down the Khumbu valleys, visiting Sherpa villages and Buddhist monasteries along the way.

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Photo 01

This is Bob at the summit of Gokyo Ri (just under 18,000') with some Buddhist prayer flags. There was a tremendous panoramic view toward Cho Oyo and Everest until the clouds finally came in.

Photo 02

This is Bob standing on Kala Pattar (about 18,200') with Mount Everest in the background. For perspective, this is about 6-7 miles from the summit of Everest. The Khumbu Icefall is visible on the left center, and the South Col is visible just below Everest's right skyline. During May 1996, lots of people died between the summit and the South Col.

Photo 03

This is the monastery at Tengboche (or Thyangboche). It is one of the most important religious sites in the entire area for this Buddhist sect. The building was destroyed by fire in 1989 and has now been reconstructed, larger and nicer than ever before.

Photo 04

Namche Bazar is the most prosperous village in the Khumbu district. This aerial photo tries to show how the stone homes are tiered in a natural ampitheatre around 11,000 feet elevation. The Sherpa people meet here for market day every Saturday, and it is the trail hub of the region.

Photo 05

This photo of three Sherpa boys is a bit misleading. These must be the three best-dressed and cleanest Sherpa kids in the whole region. Most are dressed in tatters with little, if any, footware. These kids must be going to a festival.

If you are interested in seeing more detail, jump to the following section:
Trekking Notes

If you are interested in trekking trips of this nature, one excellent contact is Geographic Expeditions in San Francisco. They will arrange everything for you, including air transportation. If you are more independent or if you just happen to know the way to Kathmandu anyway, you may be seeking just a Kathmandu contact. Geographic hired Great Escapes for all trekking arrangements inside Nepal.

If you are even more independent, and you just want to get in contact with the Sherpa guides directly, then the guys who guided us (October 1997) work out of their own lodge in Dingboche (at 14,250 feet). Mingma Sherpa has a fax number in Kathmandu: 977-1-422746. Or contact Bob.