WingsHow2?'s

WingsHow2?'s

See Leonard's Wing building video info - click here...

Ron Cola's trial fit of the wing nose ribs and leading edge longeron…

An E-mail discussion of the wing assembly process follows:

Subj: Re: legal eagle

Date: 09/25/2000 10:17:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time

From: SKiblinger

To: NLA2@aol.com

Ron:

Nice picture of your work space... Looks like you'll be able to keep it 70 degrees F this winter for your gluing sessions... Leonard likes to have us pull out those carefully shot in staples [weight reduction], they have no function after the glue is dry or any other nail in the structure as well... Wet both pieces when you glue - I don't see any oozing!

Now your construction sequence question on the wing nose ribs... The nose ribs or "D" section hereafter is very fragile to a side load until it is covered with the .8mm plywood and then the plywood itself is susceptible to a puncture or fracture until it is covered with the fabric...

The wing has to be turned over many times during the building process and your going to be putting tools across that D section numerous times during the wing buildout... Have you thought about the need to put the lift strut hardware on before you close the D section and it's probably best to use blind fasteners on that hardware? If the hardware is on then you have to cut a hole in your table or do some sort of blocks - ugh... Conceptually what you propose is easy and simple now... Later you may say darn or worse... It's your choice... If you have to do repairs later, get your local EAA designee to look at the structure and talk thru the repair process...

This is what I did:

-Built the ribs, spars and attachment hardware...

-Put the lift strut braces with doubler in on the [wing center side] of the spars only...

-I numbered the lift strut attachment metal and trial fit it to the spars following the measurements given on the plan... I had pre drilled the 1/4 holes in the metal and then I drilled [almost thru] the doubler and brace - then the metal was removed and set aside...

-I picked 12 main ribs and matched them for end to end length...

-I looked in the rear spar slot and removed glue on the aft side of the slot and any other spar tangent surfaces...

-A measurement was made to match all the ribs dimensions from the front of the rib to the aft face of the rear spar slot...

-One rib was then modified by sanding off the gussets aft of the rear spar on one side for the 1/4 plywood aileron hinge doubler - the doubler was installed and I didn't put that corner fillet in until much later - after alignments...

-Another rib was modified in the rear spar slot to go over the aft lift strut doubler...

-The rear spar was marked for each rib location on the web... I also had the front spar next to the aft spar for opposing markings - on the 1/4 verticals it should be square on and I decided to center the 3/4 verticals on the front and rear spars...

-The rib with the aileron doubler and 3 more ribs were slid on the spar from the root end and then the root fitting doublers were glued in place...

-The root fittings with a bolt loose fit thru the attach hole for alignment were clamped in place and then drilled half way from both sides [measure 3 times drill once]... The outside of the fittings were marked with a pencil and then removed until the end ribs are glued in place...

-Two ribs were marked and cut away where the root fittings and doublers interfere - a 1/4 x 1/4 doubler was glued on the weakened areas of the ribs...

The close spaced root ribs were modified to fit over the root fittings in two stages - first when the doublers were in place and finally when the metal fittings had been located...

-The remaining ribs were then put on the rear spar and located for trial fit...

-Then the ribs were moved 1\4 inch to the side and I put glue on the attach locations [2 wet coats] my slot was loose fit so I was also able to work some glue into the ribs contact surfaces as I located them in the final position... There is no spar contact on the front member of the rear spar slot in the main rib of my wings...

-The rib needs to be nailed and do practice on scrap first if you aren't a good nailer like me... I used an electric stapler with brads in it and a small hammer in combination... I eyeballed the square fit of the ribs as I assembled and then when all the commotion was over I went thru with a mechanics square to check... Don't forget to slip those metal root fittings in place, put the bolts in and tighten... The fittings were bedded in glue... I stayed with the assembly until the glue was stiff in the mixing cup...

TO BE CONTINUED- if you wish...

"I don't believe in mixing coating and/or gluing systems!... Go with Epoxy..." The Stits system is certified... Only the glue is holding this thing together - no bolts/screws or rivets and there isn't even any rib stitching!

Your parts look well shaped in the picture!

Steve

In a message dated 09/24/2000 6:35:32 PM Pacific Daylight Time, NLA2@aol.com writes:

<< Subj: legal eagle

Date: 09/24/2000 6:35:32 PM Pacific Daylight Time

From: NLA2@aol.com

To: SKiblinger

File: DCP_0077.JPG (129860 bytes)

DL Time (26400 bps): < 1 minute

Mr. Skiblinger; 2 questions. First would it be easier to lay out the nose ribs as shown below or should I wait until after the ribs are in place ?? Leonard says "simplify"?, Could I use exterior poly eurathane to varnish the ribs and spars or maybe spar varnish ?? >>

Subj: Re: legal aegle

Date: 09/19/2000 4:25:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time

From: SKiblinger

To: NLA2@aol.com

Ron,

Follow the thinning instructions on the cans... I think you'll lose too much material in over spray even with HVLP - we've done both!...

Steve

In a message dated 09/19/2000 3:53:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, NLA2@aol.com writes:

<< Subj: Re: legal aegle

Date: 09/19/2000 3:53:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time

From: NLA2@aol.com

To: SKiblinger

Thanks for that bit of info.. Do you thin the varnish ? I could use a spry gun to varnish but would it cover to much ?? >>

Subj: Re: legal aegle

Date: 09/19/2000 2:27:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time

From: SKiblinger

To: NLA2@aol.com

CC: Leonard@fbtc.net

Ron,

The rib jigging on the web site is dead simple to do - you make sure the wing is flat on the bench and the front spar is over hanging the side of the bench slightly... It's easy (and important) to line up in this arrangement... Your eye is in fact as good or better than strings - you'll see alignment opportunities if you look... Stay with the job and keep checking until the glue is stiff in the mixing cup - I find myself fixing something unnoticed well into the drying cycle often enough to make it my gluing process...

I'm using the Stits covering system that Leonard recommends... Part of that system is an Epoxy varnish and that's what I'm using... Now I don't believe in gluing over varnish even if they come from the same family of sticky soooo... I glue the plywood on the bottom of the spar being careful to see that the butt joints all the way around to the top are close fit - then after the glue is dried I use that Blue 1" masking tape and mask (everything) that still needs to be glued... With a brush I put one coat of Stits Epoxy Varnish on the exposed and soon to be inside surfaces... There will be some seep under the tape and I hit that with 80 grit and dust off with a tack rag... The outside of the wing wood work will get one coat of Stits epoxy varnish before I cover... I'll put a small picture on the site of this and also a picture of your next question - how do I clamp the plywood? Stan wanted to make 10 female shapes of the nose rib in 1/2 plywood for the clamping and that is the labor intensive way to do it - it's your choice...

If you don't mind, I'm going to post this communication to the web site too... Others will have the same questions....

Remember, homebuilding is an education process and even factory built airplanes come out of the shop (old)... Get advise from your EAA designee and make safe repairs when necessary...

Build if you have the will to finish!

Steve

In a message dated 09/19/2000 1:35:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time, NLA2@aol.com writes:

<< Subj: legal aegle

Date: 09/19/2000 1:35:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time

From: NLA2@aol.com

To: SKiblinger

Thanks for the information... Here is another thought that I have been toying with.. Wouldn't it be easier to place the front nose ribs in place while the spar was lying flat . I can't see how it could not be done. Gravity as well as wood blocks would hold the nose ribs in position and it would be easier to line up the longeron slot with ,say a string in the groove.. Another question; When should the main ribs and the spar be varnished? Will the t-88 glue hold to dry varnish after everything is in place and squared up? Thanks for your patience .. Ron Cola, 440-946-4782... I'm located in Mentor Ohio just east of Cleveland,Ohio... Based at Lost Nation Airport,Willoughby, Oh........ >>

Re: Legal Eagle

Ron,

First I must say that we need to get on with it as someone in Ohio is flying now September 2000...

Have you looked at the Milholland Video? Upon several viewings you'll begin to see that the airplane we're building is not the one Leonard is flying... The most obvious is the cab bracing and a good improvement...

I bought the plans in late December 98 and started building the construction bench on Memorial Day 1999... I kept reading the plans during the 5 months between Dec and May... There was much that did not come clear until I actually got into the construction and I've come to a process that involves intense study of the drawing until I really visualize the part/assembly and sometimes there will be a plan error that materializes - a good sign that I'm ready to build...

<<I would like some info on what to cut out of the first two ribs. Or should I reenforce the rib with a second front upright then cut out the space for the root connection ?>>

I think your asking about the nose ribs... There is not a second close spaced nose rib - count them out with attention to the fact that the plywood cover splicing rib is doubled - a 1/8 and a 1/4 rib are glued together...The root fittings are a problem - hard to glue to that metal fitting before or after closing the D section... You see my solution with the 1/4 x 3/4 notched piece... Notice too that I put some 1.5mm braces where the fitting notches destroyed the ribs structural strength on the front spar aft location... Tell me if a close picture will help on the web site and what to take it of... There is a -gotchya- in the number of plywood splices on the D section... The outboard plywood measures 49" and I can only find the 8mm plywood in 48 x 48... Leonard probably had some of the European stuff in the 50"+ dimensions up in his loft... I doubled station 9 so there are 3 splices on my wing... I just butt glued the ribs on the spar - I'm putting a picture on the Wing page that shows the jigging - BE SURE THAT SPAR IS STRAIGHT and THE RIBS ARE IDENTICAL... L O O K down the longeron slot and the inside the rib cavity - if it isn't straight fix it before the glue dries or you try to cover! I put the nose ribs straight across from the main rib - I used a mechanics square to transfer the location and then a vertical mark on the spar front - be sure all is square to prevent trouble covering the D section... My only regret is I didn't make another table and build both wings at once - you might think about that! I'd be flying if I had... Remember to make 2 more 1/4 nose ribs for the add'l doubling! If you have a budget for purchased parts, Stan will build them for you...

Nice to hear from you and keep at it daily, daily and daily even if to just touch the project, that way you'll finish... 9 out of 10 homebuilts are not finished by the originator, be the 10th guy for the pleasure of a great plane and a lifetime of satisfaction...

Steve

In a message dated 09/16/2000 5:56:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time, NLA2@aol.com writes:

<< Subj: legal eagle

Date: 09/16/2000 5:56:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time

From: NLA2@aol.com

To: SKiblinger

Are there any clearer drawings of the leagle eagle? Some of the things i have seen on this web site are not in the plans I bought from leonard. I would like some info on what to cut out of the first two ribs. Or should I reenforce the rib with a second front upright then cut out the space for the root connection ? I see that on one picture it shows a vertical brace on the front rib (gusset). And , Should I glue a support block next to any of the front nose ribs ? And where should I put the 8 1/4 inch nose ribs ? As you may have allready noted i am a first time builder .. but Im going ahead and with any luck I'll be flying in about 5years......heh heh heh ! thanks... Ron >>